In episode #7 of the podcast, Todd and Dalton reminisce over some of the dive gear that they bought over the years. Some items they regretted, while others ended up being some of the best bang for the buck and are still in use many years later. Here are the items from each of their winner’s and losers list:
- Shakers / Noise Makers – great for getting your dive buddy’s attention and works much better than banging your tank. H2Yo is my favorite. It comes in many colors, and 2 different sound choices. (I like the rattle better than the clank).
- Muck Sticks – They have so many uses underwater. Primarily it ensures you don’t touch the reef with your hands, but you will find hundreds of other great uses for it while underwater. Stainless Steel ones are little heavier and more expensive. Aluminum sticks sometimes comes in fun colors, is lighter, and cheaper.
- Regulator Swivel Hose – These guys saved my jaw by relieving all the tension when using my regulator. It’s by far one of my favorite upgrades. I bought the Atomic Comfort swivel hose, and it’s fantastic and lasted for many years. But, there are also lots of other options for less money as well.
- Spring Straps For Open Heel Fins – These spring straps are awesome if you have to dive in open heel fins. Much better than fussing with traditional straps
- Bare Wetsuits – These wetsuits come in tons of sizes to fit any body shape and are super comfortable and long lasting. (I like the velocity line)
- Housing Handles – I make these myself out of stainless steel O-Rings and Paracord.
- Action Cameras – Lots of options from GoPro, DJI and other off brands that all work well… some as cheap as $30! Check out the various options on Amazon.
- White Balance Card – There’s no easy way to hold onto it while diving and not that many situations called for it. Often times when i need to white balance, i will just use the Sand on the sea floor.
- Aeris Epic Dive Computer – The menu system was so counter intuitive, it was known to drive many people insane. I’m sure they are better now, but this much loved dive computer was an anathema.
- Macro Diopter For Action Cams – This guy has lots of potential, but the realities of shooting with such a shallow depth of field while diving and trying to get moving critters in there meant i got very little use out of it. It’s a good quality product, but a G.A.S. mistake for me
- Wallet Size Dry Boxes – Wallet size cases like these are tempting, but if you’re on a dive, better to hide it away in your dry bag than to stow it away in a BCD pocket. Chances of flooding or losing it are higher than it getting stolen.
- Camera Bouyancy Systems / Float Arms – Arm Floats are great to get your camera rig close to neutral, which is where you want to be, personally I think the sweet spot is slightly negative.
- Big Stainless Steel D Ring – D-rings have many uses, especially a larger one when you use them with your open heel fins and clip them to your BCD.
- Hollis Rebreathers – Rebreathers (closed and semi closed circuit) like the Hollis Prism 2 offer great benefits when it comes to bottom time and being able to swim among the sea life with out scaring them off with the sounds of SCUBA.
- Fiber Optic Triggers – Optical Slave Triggers like the Ikelite DS Slave Converter or the Angelfish Remote Trigger are a great way to get your lights off camera and in to your scene for a more interesting composition.
- Moisture Munchers – Moisture Munchers or a Silca decanesent is great for keeping your camera housing free from moisture and fog free.
- Atomic Frameless Mask – Masks are such a personal thing, but the things to look for in a mask are low volume, soft silicone skirt, good field of vision, comfortable and a good seal. That being said the Atomic Frameless Mask checks all of those boxes and then some.
- Dive Alert Plus (Quacker) – Having a Quacker on your gear, is a waste of good money and good air, there are more economical ways to make noise underwater like the H2Yo Todd mentioned or the XS SCUBA Rattle.
- Split Fins – Split fins have a slit that lets water flow smoothly on the upward fin stroke, resulting in a foil shape from both sides of the blade. This shape allows you to move forward through the water by producing the right lift and are efficient with little to no current. However, split fins won’t let you swim faster than your current speed. If you do longer, harder kicks using these scuba fins, their flow-through design gets less efficient.
- 7mm Wet Suits – 7mm plus wetsuits are thick, heavy, hot when out of the water, and restrict movement. Look at investing in a drysuit.
- Turtleback – You should stay hydrated, but drinking water before and between dives should keep you hydrated enough you don’t have to think about taking water on a dive with you.
What are some of the best and worst purchases that you made as a result of Gear Acquisition Syndrome? Let us know in the comments.